talks frequently about three matters: Films — notably those starring Keanu Reeves and George Clooney — biking and Calabrian chiles. Before I met himI always maintained a jar of Calabrian chiles in oil in my refrigerator, for spiking pasta sauce, but I had not actually tasted their hot, fruity taste until I saw him scoop the condiment along with… pretty much any takeout he purchased or dish that he cooked: chicken wings; bacon, butter and cheese sandwiches; scallops; bass; pasta; the list continues.
The peppers now cultivated in Calabria are regarded as somewhat different from comparable peppers grown everywhere, in part due to variations in soil and climate. I have never seen these sold new from the United States — just dried, pickled or in petroleum — but perhaps that is because I have not looked in the ideal places. All I understand is that there is something to this flavor.
The taste of the crushed and roasted chiles saturated in petroleum reminds me a bit of a Fresno chile, but can pack a little more warmth, even though it’s not quite as sexy as a very hot jalapeño. The odor of this tickles my nose, but it is not a taste that lingers on the tongue. Just like a hummingbird suckling a blossom, it thrums set up for a few minutes, but then you blink and it’s flitted off in a blur. I didn’t develop much Italian food, so that it tastes equally novel and familiar to me.
The flexibility of Calabrian chiles are what make it an important condiment in my cabinet.
If you’ve got it, then drizzle some with this super simple recipe for white bean soup. But if you do not, you are able to swap in to your favourite chile oil — chile crisp or even a simple Sichuan might be fine, or salsa macha, if you have this. It’s possible to produce a fast chile oil by heating up a small number of neutral oil, turning off the heat, including crushed or ground dried chiles and allow it to steep as you create the soup. Or, if you do not like heating, you can bypass this, and top the soup rather with a spoonful of fine olive oil and shaved Parmesan or pecorino.